Pylasteki is a 1961 Pearson Triton sailboat. She is one of my personal project boats... I am rebuilding her as a blue water cruiser.

Enjoy, if you have any questions or comments, drop me line:


Sunday, October 5, 2008

Back burner...

Well not really the back burner... but I have been trying to find pots that fit my sea swing stove!

Spent a few hours this weekend cleaning out Pylasteki and tracking down water leaks.

I've come to the realization that it is going to be quite difficult and uncomfortable to recore the deck while sitting on the side decks. Triton owners and those familiar with them will know that the 18 inch, tapering to 13 inch side decks don't leave a whole lot of room to sit down while working... and the barge at the boat yard is almost as long as Pylasteki! Dinky is small enough that I'm not fond of hanging over the side with power tools...

I'm going to give it a try from the inside. The inner skin is fairly thin on my boat, so it is not self supporting without the outer skin... meaning it needs a lot of support inside to hold onto the camber of the deck. I think it'll yield a stronger installation than what was stock. However, I'll need a tyvec suit (green house) and swimming goggles... lest I become a resin head.

Anyone have tips for fiberglassing overhead? Did you do two stages, the first with the balsa wood and after it cured, a coat of fiberglass? It'd be a real trick to vacuum bag it, but I'm not certain how to seal it around the toe rail.

Thanks for any thoughts!



Tim said...

Tips for recoring overhead?

Here's one: don't do it!

But if you must, definitely approach it as two separate tasks: first the core installation, then the glass over the top. Trying to do it in a single operation would compound the already significant difficulties involved with working in this manner.

Anonymous said...

I had to replace the deck core on the entire foredeck, and about a 4 sq. foot area on the aft deck above the lazarette.

I did it from the inside. It’s doable. I do understand why you want to do it from the inside.

You have to break it down into small steps, dry fit everything, figure out your bracing, dry fit the bracing and make sure you can get it all back into place once you’re putting it up for good. Pics of the bracing dry fit in place help a lot when you’re working under a time constraint.

It is definitely a multi-step operation. Don’t even think about putting the inner skin up until the new core is glued in place, faired and sounded for voids.

If I had to do it over I’d cut the outer skin, and either spend a lot of time fairing, or put down Treadmaster. Those parts you’ve done from the outside look pretty good.

I can provide a step by step description, a few tips, and pics if you like in an email.

Nice boat, nice blog.


Merritt Island, FL

Zach said...

Thanks guys!

Yeah, fighting gravity is a dumb thing to do... but if I can save having to haul her out, I can put a few hundred dollars more into materials and do some overkill.

Mike, I'd love to hear your thoughts:

My plan at the moment is to completely remove the inner skin from one side to the other.

Under the toe rail I'm thinking to glass in a tube of foam or cardboard (could pull wire through it...) to make a longitudinal stringer. Then, bond the new balsa to the underside of the top skin and hang the fiberglass from the vertical surface around the inside ledge of the cabintop in strips/sections.

Thinking to continue the fiberglass down past the the hull to deck joint.


First Mate Mary said...

Hey there Zach,
Where are you in N.C. We used to keep our boat at Bennett Brothers in Wilmington. Also, we got a really reasonable boat insurance policy from a friend of ours that is an agent there, if you're shopping. This plan actually pays to ship parts where ever you are and since we need new batteries in the Bahamas this is a good thing. I'll be checking back with your blog.

Tim said...

Pretty quite over here...anything going on?

Tim said...

Oops, that should be "pretty quiet", not "pretty quite"!